Back to home page. Recipes Tareq's Nordic Cooking show can be found here.
Ecco una delle scene più spettacolari del film "Six Underground" che si sta girando in questi giorni. Il video è stato ripreso da un abitante in via dell'Oliviera. Powered by Miles Secondo te i vaccini per i bimbi devono essere obbligatori?
D'Urso o Venier, voi domenica pomeriggio chi guarderete? Ancora una caduta dalla "Balena Bianca": L'Inps avvia nuove assunzioni. Ubriachi e drogati al volante: Caprioli, Tar respinge ricorso. Home Video News by Vista. Agenzia Vista Palermo, 14 settembre Conte a inaugurazione anno scolastico interrotto da campanella scherza "E' ricreazione? Contenuti Sponsorizzati Contenuti Sponsorizzati. Oil leaked past the rear axle seal and into the brake hub area. Oil does not help your brakes work! With oil the brake area, it means these shoes are toast, so we are going to replace them.
Start by removing the shoes. First, remove the two small retaining clips at the front brake posts. Then, pivot the brake actuator at the rear of the brake shoes by pressing the rear brake pedal. Then, get a flat blade screw driver into the space between the shoe and the brake cam , as shown in the picture above. Push up on the shoe to get it away from the cam, and then, using another screw driver, slowly work the shoe off the set pin at the front.
You need to make sure to work both sides of the shoe evenly so it doesn't bind on the front pin. The whole thing will eventually pop off.
With the shoes off, you want to prepare your new shoes. The picture above shows them with the spring , which I removed, and cleaned, from the old shoes. Next, not shown, I cleaned the whole brake area with brake cleaner and rags. Next, we put on the new shoes. First, place one of the shoes on the front pin, and the rear cam.
Then, take the second pin, and place it just barely on the outside edge of the cam. Using the cam as a pivot, swing the shoe around, and hook it on the front pin.
When you have both sides of the shoe even, and barely on the pin and cam, lightly tap the shoe into place. When you are done, it will look like this. Then, put both of the small retaining clips on the front brake pins.
At this point, move the rear brake pedal to make sure everything works as it should. Then, loosen the nut on the rear brake cable so that the brake shoes are in a "neutral position". You will adjust the brake cable later. However, if the brake cable is too tight at this point, the rear hub won't fit over the shoes. Next, we place the rear hub over the shoes and onto the axle.
Then, put the spacer washer and castleated nut onto the axle. You want to make sure that when the nut is tightened in the correct range, that one of the "windows" on the axle line up with a slot on the nut.
When they are lined up, slide your cotter pin through the nut, and then peen it over the nut. The cotter pin locks the nut so that if it loosens somehow, it won't fall off the axle. DO NOT omit the cotter pin, it is a crucial safety component.
With the hub on, and locked into place, it is time to adjust the rear brake cable. Using your "third hand tool", pull the slack out of the cable. Then adjust the cable so that the shoes are just short of engaging the brakes.
Then tighten the screw on the rear brake actuating arm. Hook the free end of the cable into its keeper on the actuating arm. Test the brake by spinning the wheel and pressing the brake pedal. You should hear no scraping, and the brakes should stop the hub easily. Once you are satisfied that you have adjusted the cable, and everything is working as it should, put the rear wheel on the hub. Then put the spare back on, and then the battery-side cowl.
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